Sunday 20 December 2009

Settlers of Catan: two player house rules

I did some research to find variations of Settlers for just two players. I found this useful set of instructions for two-player Settlers with good rationale for why the changes were needed. I followed the links at the bottom - not all of them worked - for different suggestions. I looked at a few other sites too, and made a note of the major reasons for varying the game when only two people are playing. The main problems with just playing the regular game seemed to be:

1) it can take a while to get going as there would only be four settlements on the board
2) if one player gets ahead, it's hard for the other to catch up
3) trading with the other person isn't going to happen much
4) plenty of space for expansion means the game may be over quickly

Suggestions made at the various sites ranged from using a smaller board (difficult with the new version, unless sea tiles from Seafarers are used), each playing two colours, having a fictional extra player controlled by both, or each rolling twice per turn. We wanted to keep it simple, so decided to use the regular 3-4 person board, and just one set of pieces each. We did try rolling twice per turn, but quickly got confused as to whose turn it was!

So we came up with our own house rules, and have played several versions of two-player Settlers which seem to work well.

  • Play to 16 points (we tried 15 at first, but 16 is more interesting)
  • Each person starts with three settlements and three adjoining streets. How this works is:
  1. Whoever rolls the higher dice places their first settlement and street as usual.
  2. The other player places two settlements and two streets, and takes resources for one of them.
  3. The first player places two more settlements and streets, and takes resources for all of them (up to six in all)
  4. The second player places one final settlement and street, and takes the resources for the settlement.
(what this means is that both players should have access to all five resources, and most numbers. That allows for fairly quick expansion)
  • Player-to-player trading does not happen; trading can only happen with the bank, using harbours if owned as in the normal game of Settlers.
(this is simpler than having the frustration of only one player wishing to trade with the other)
  • When a seven is rolled in any of the first three rounds, it is ignored and the dice are re-rolled with the robber remaining on the desert.
(in the regular Settlers 3-4 player game we play this rule for the first two rounds anyway, to allow for faster acquisition of resources. We tried four rounds without sevens in the two-player game at first but it was too easy to lose track of which round we were in. Three seems to work)

The next three rules apply when a seven is rolled after the first three rounds:
  • Players may hold up to nine cards in their hands rather than seven, before having to put half of them back.
(This is important since resources tend to be acquired more rapidly, and player-to-player trading doesn't happen so it's harder to build)
  • The player moving the robber takes a resource card of his choice from the bank* rather than stealing from the other player.
(At first we decided to allow this as an option - since it's possible that the other player might not have any cards - but we tended to use it all the time, so adopted it as a rule)* update to our two-player rules, January 14th 2010: instead of taking a resource of one's choice, the person controlling the robber after rolling a 7 takes a resource card matching the hex on which he or she has placed the robber.
  • Very important: if one player has more victory points on the board than the other, then the one who has fewer points controls the robber. So if player 1 rolls a 7, but has more points than player 2, it is player 2 who moves the robber and takes an extra card. It is still player 1's turn, however, so he or she may still trade with the bank and/or build, and/or play a development card.
(This ensures that one player does not gain the lead and then race ahead without any possibility of the other one catching up. Note, however, that a knight card can be played as usual during either player's turn, and that player then controls the robber and takes an extra card from his or her opponent, as in the normal game.)


We did come up with an extra optional possibility: that if one person plays the monopoly card, he or she not only takes the relevant resources from the other player, but then also takes an equivalent number of the same resource from the bank. However the monopoly card does not come up all that often, and we usually forget. It doesn't seem to be particularly important so we've abandoned it.

Playing to 15 points means that it's possible to win by having all cities and settlements on the board, plus either the largest army or longest street card, or a couple of victory points. We now prefer 16 points as it can take a little longer, but even so we find the two-player game rarely takes more than about 45 minutes.

Seafarers of Catan for two players

These rules adapt easily to Seafarers of Catan, in the various scenarios. We play to 16 points, usually, or - if the booklet suggests more than 13 - to 17 or even 18. We usually agree on the number of points (or a finishing time) before we begin or even during the game.

The knight is controlled as above: if a 7 is rolled, if either player is behind in victory points, they control it, otherwise it's whoever rolls the 7. The person controlling the robber takes a resource matching the hex on which the robber lands from the bank. If a knight is played, a resource is taken from the other player. New to seafarers: if the pirate is played, rather than the robber, whether from a 7 or a knight card, a resource card is taken from the other player.

Cities and Knights of Catan for two players

We were pleased to find that Cities and Knights can also work as a two-player game. We use the same rules, again, but playing to 18 points. We start with the same pattern of building in the setup phase, but the final placement is (as in the Cities and Knights rules) a city.

In other words: player A builds one settlement and street. Player B builds two settlements, and two streets, and takes resource cards for the second settlement. Player A then builds one more settlement and one city, and takes resource cards for each (just one per adjoining hex for each) and finally player B builds a city, taking one resource card for each adjoining hex.

We play three rounds without the event die, so that the barbarian cannot start attacking, and we also ignore any 7s in the first three rounds (any player who throws 7 rolls again).

Unlike two-person Settlers or Seafarers, we do not take note of who is behind in victory points when a 7 is rolled, since the progress cards include several which can only be played by the person who is behind. Instead, the robber is moved by whoever rolls the 7, and a resource is taken from the bank matching the hex on which the robber is played. If someone kicks the robber away using a knight, a resource is taken from the hand of the other player.

12 comments:

  1. After looking at several two-player rules for the regular game, I find this the best (and thankfully, least radical) variation.

    One problem that emerges, however, is the house rule concerning the robber, which is always moved by the player with the lowest current point total (presumably disregarding the hidden development cards).

    This rule helps to balance the game, but it can lead to “sandbagging.”

    For example, there’s too often an advantage in NOT building the longest road for most of the game, to stay just behind in points and keep control of the robber. Keeping things even until the final turns of the game makes the luck of the dice far more important, because the robber is constantly on the leading player’s best hexes, sometimes ruining an otherwise winning strategy.

    Furthermore, the lowest-point player gets to “choose” a resource card by moving the robber to a certain hex or by drawing from the bank (depending on which of these rules is adopted).

    Here’s a minor variation that should help mitigate the effect of one person keeping control of the robber too long.

    1. (Same as current “house rule.”) Player with the lowest score (not counting the hidden development cards) moves the robber no matter who rolls the 7. (This does not change whose turn it is.)

    2. Whoever moves the robber rolls one die and takes the applicable resource card from the bank.

    1 = brick
    2 = lumber
    3 = wheat
    4 = wool
    5 = ore
    6 = no card taken

    This eliminates either a “choice” (by moving the robber to a particular hex) of what resource card is taken---and it also prevents a card being taken from the leading player’s hand. This should temper the effect of the player who’s barely behind in points always having control of the robber. The goal is to discourage “sandbagging.”

    Comments appreciated.

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    1. I may not have stated that last paragrpah very well. By having to roll for a resource card, the player who moves the robber cannot (1) choose which card is taken from the bank or (2) cannot choose which resource card is drawn by moving the robber to a particular hex. (See two-player rules.) I should have said it STILL (rather than "also") prevents a card being taken from the leading player's hand---because the rule for the Knight card is the same as in the 3-4 player rules.

      Rolling for a card via the robber doesn't make a huge difference! It's merely all I could think of to slightly temper the effect of controlling the robber in the excellent two-player version above.

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    2. In other words, when a knight card is played (instead of a 7 being rolled) the person playing the knight still takes a card from the other player's hand. When a 7 is rolled, the player with the least points rolls for a resource card. (In each instance, of course, the robber is moved by the person with the least points.)

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    3. We play a two-player variant of Settlers of the Stone Age using rules suggested on spotlightongames.com. The balancing mechanism is that whenever the player who's behind gets to take a card from the player who's ahead, after drawing the first card they may choose to take a second. I wonder how well this would fit into 2-player SoC as well.

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    4. We've decided that after a player's roll of "7" that activates the robber, a resource roll of "6" (with one die as suggested above, etc.) should gives the player a choice of resources rather than no resource. (It's such a drag to get nothing for a "6"!)

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  2. Thanks for the comments! This sounds like a very interesting variation.

    The reason we opted at first for the person who was behind controlling the robber is that it's very easy for one person to leap into the lead and stay there, particularly if the two opponents are of different skill levels. I would still recommend this for an adult playing with a child, I think. However after we had been playing for six months we found that (a) we became much more even and (b) we often forgot to check who was behind anyway... or, as you say, deliberately did NOT take the longest street so as to stay behind.

    So we actually abandoned that variation. Now, whoever throws a 7 or plays a knight takes a card (from the bank) matching the hex on which they place the robber. In a sense it makes it a bit too easy, yet in a 2-player game with no trading it can sometimes be extremely difficult to get hold of certain resources, so it's a useful extra way of enabling them.

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    1. Whatever variation is chosen to deal with the robber, it can be really frustrating to get stuck with him/her for too long without rolling a 7. So we have another idea as follows: Once the robber is placed on a hex, we put 3 chits under it. These chits are removed one at a time for each roll of that hex's number. The fourth time that hex is rolled, the robber must be moved to the desert (or to the pirate ship in Seafarers). The same rule is applied to the pirate in Seafarers (whereas on the fourth roll, the pirate is moved out to sea.)

      In other words, the robber can block resources on a particular hex only three times. On the fourth time, it is moved away and resources are collected.

      (We also have a house rule for Seafarers that the pirate and the robber cannot be used against a single player simultaneously.)

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    2. That sound like an excellent idea, not just for a two-player game.

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    3. We’re still testing these ideas. Two problems have arisen: (1) After a chit or two is removed from under the robber, there is little incentive to get knight cards, since it then costs three resources to get one or two before the robber is moved away regardless. (2) In Seafarers, moving the pirate away after three turns seems fast, and you have to remember to remove those chits each turn.

      One thing we have been doing is keeping the robber and pirate inactive for the first two rolls of 7 each. Getting stuck with the robber early can be a disaster. We are still looking for ideas to temper the impact of the robber (and pirate). We are considering the simple solution of adding “2” and/or “12” to the roll of “7” to get rid of the robber or pirate. Comments welcome!

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    4. Contrary to our reservations in the last post, we do believe that putting those three chits under the robber (but not the pirate) is still a good idea. Given a few more games, it seems that this method does not often hinder the incentive from trying to get knight cards, because so many other factors come into play, including stage of development.

      Alternatively, instead of the using chits under the robber, simply adding a “12” and/or a “2” to a roll of “7” to get rid of the robber (or pirate) also seems like a good idea. It’s a bit less cumbersome, and it works with both robber and pirate. The whole idea is to try to reduce bad luck to some sort of minimum. It’s amazing, at times, how long a person can go without rolling a “7”!

      We’re also learning how complicated game testing can be. But I don’t suppose it hurts to discuss potential rule changes while in the process. Many thanks to Sue!

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  3. Me and my roommate use Catan and the Seafarer expansion. Our rules usually go like this:

    Setup:
    Make the space the largest possible, take turns picking tiles randomly and place them on opposite ends of the board. When there are 2 blank spaces separating player 1 and player 2 sides, the board is complete. Set unused tiles aside as a draw pile for the Fog of War. (Gold tiles must go into this draw pile)

    Each player draws 4 ports at random, and places them face down facing away from the center of the map (all ports must be facing toward their respective player). Flip over ports once all are placed.

    Each player controls 1/2 the numbers :
    Player 1: 2,3,3,4,4,5,5,6,6,8,9,10,11,12
    Player 2: 2,3,4,5,6,8,8,9,9,10,10,11,11,12

    Players may now place their numbers on the land tiles of their respective side.

    Place 2 settlements and 2 roads (or ships), gather resources for both settlements.

    Gameplay:
    Both Bandit and Pirate are active, if you roll a 7, you get a choice to move either of them, but you MUST move at least one.

    Bandit: Stops production of resources on any 1 tile.

    Pirate: May only be placed on sea tiles, but stops the production of any tiles it is next to. All resources that would have been produced while pirate is active are placed under the pirate. Whoever moves the pirate collects all resources robbed. Pirate also stops all ship movement through that 1 tile.

    When rolling a 7, if any player has 7 or more cards they must lose 1/2 rounded down, and does not take a card from the other player. If neither player has 7, the person who rolled the 7 selects a resource at random from other player.

    Ship movement: In order to build a ship, you must be touching the sea with a settlement. To explore you must have a ship in port, and another ship to explore (you need 2 ships, one must always be attached to the settlement). Player may move one ship per turn.

    Land Discovery: If you move your ship to border an unknown tile, draw a tile at random from the remaining tiles and place face up, the player who discovers the tile places a one of their remaining numbers on the new tile (If a player runs out of numbers, they may select one from the other player to use). If it is a resource tile, take 1 of that resource. Your boat may always sail toward a new fog of war, but if trapped between land (cant move toward an ocean, or an unknown tile), your boat is shipwrecked, you may settle but not move the boat any longer.
    ***You cannot discover new land by building a road along tile, or settling next to an unknown tile***

    Winning: Usually play to 12 victory points, games last anywhere from 30min-1hr.

    Summary:
    We have found this variation usually works out pretty fairly, with WILD swings of power. The board normally starts off with all but 1 resource on each side, with lots of Islands. Your starting settlements will probably only have access to 2 resources and expansion to the sea is a MUST. The Pirate really delays resource production, but usually has a stock of 5+ resources under him. So player controlling the Pirate must weigh the collection of resource vs the delay of resource towards the other player. The bandit although seeming less powerful, usually decides the game, because he is so hard to get rid of.

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  4. Kosmos created the game Starship Catan for when you want to play a Catan-style game, but only have two players.

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